Dior Capture Youth (review)

11:13 AM

Hi there!
Today I have a review of Dior new Capture Youth line!
This new line consists of a cream, the Age-delay advanced creme and 5 serums that can choose according to your skin type and skin needs.


I must say that when I first saw this new line, my heart started to beat faster when I saw a Vitamin C serum (yes...Vitamin C and I are BFF) :D and then, taking a closer look at it, I was super happy to see that the composition of this serum (the Glow Booster) was on point and sounded really promising. So of course I snatched it and run back home to start trying it! The other serums didn't interested me that much at first because I think the ingredients are a bit simpler. That said I received the cream and the Plum Filler and I must admit I also like them..a lot! Find below why ;D



Dior presents this line as Your personalized  Capture Youth program. On their website, if you click HERE, you can take a quick questionnaire to analyze your skin needs and then a combo of cream/serum is proposed (that's a simple questionnaire btw :p ).

Among the 5 serums available, each one targets a different need and skin issue, such as dehydrated, dull, oily, sagging or redness-suffering skin.

You can either apply the serum of your choice and then the cream or mix the serum with the cream and apply them together,


The Capture Youth line was developed in partnership with the Université Pierre et Marie Curie. The Integrative Cellular Ageing Laboratory of this university has identified a key mechanism of oxidation in the skin involving glyoxal and glyoxalase. Glyoxal is a molecule that can cause oxidative stress, which is of course damaging to the cells. Glyoxalase is an enzyme able to suppress this process thereby representing a powerful denfense against oxidation. It was noticed that the activity of this enzyme decreases with time, the skin fails to resist everyday aggressions, such as stress, pollution and UVs. Skin can get dull, red, lack of plumpness and fine lines start to appear. Dior discovered that Florentina iris extract could target glyoxalase and help it stay active and enable the skin to anticipate and prepare for the effects of time.


The Capture Youth line focuses on:
1. Anticipation - The creme, which boasts the highest concentration of iris among Dior products, has shown its abilities in real-life use, to double the antioxidant potential of the skin1 to target the signs of age before they appear.
2. Personalization - Each of the five different serums is enhanced with powerful natural ingredients, at their optimal concentration, to target specific signs and customize the routine. Together, they reinforce the skin’s active antioxidant power and maximize its youthfulness






Formulated with water, solvents, emollients including shea butter and jojoba esters, it also contains some texture modifying agents and surfactants as well as hyaluronic acid. It contains 3 main botanical extracts:
  • Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, it’s a spiny, evergreen tree that contains antioxidant rich molecules (1, 2)
  • Kappaphycus Alvarezii extract, aka elkhorn sea moss, it is a species of red algae. It is one of the most important commercial sources of carrageenans, a family of gel-forming, viscosifying polysaccharides. This edible seaweed has also a antioxidant potential (3).
  • Iris Florentina Root Extract. This plant is known to contain antioxidant molecules (4, 5) and it’s also used as a medicinal plant but it’s mainly used in the perfume industry. I haven’t been able to find any scientific information about iris florentina and gyoxalase but that’s also possible that  this work was funded by Dior and therefore kept as an industrial property. Because of this fragrant properties, iris can be sensitizing to some, so don't forget to patch test it first (as usual with all products).

The cream is housed in a sturdy and elegant jar (a bit similar to the Capture Totale cream but simpler). The cream has a medium consistency, it's not a gel cream but not a heavy cream. The texture is smooth and easy to apply. It's quickly absorbed and doesn't feel sticky, importantly it doesn't feel greasy but is still able to provide a good amount of moisture. I think it has the right texture to be mixed with the serums, it has some body to it to retain the serums but not to heavy to prevent their absorption. It has a very faint scent that is lovely.





SUMMARY - CREAM
Overall this is a nice cream that at first I thought would be a bit simple but the more I use it and the more I like it. I use it every evening mixed with the 2 serums (you can also use it AM by the way). Why do I like it? I always say that I prefer gel textures or gel creams because my skin doesn't like heavier creams. But here, although the cream is nourrishing, it's not heavy or greasy. I also think that it has the perfect texture to be used with the serums. But if you have a favorite cream, you can also use it to mix the serums. This is not a cream you absolutely need to have but it's a very pleasant cream to use because of the lovely texture, the very subtle scent (it's not too fragranced therefore it should suit most people), and overall the ingredient list, although I find it a bit simple, I think it's nicely formualted without irritating ingredients, I find it pretty gentle.




As I said in the intro, this serum makes me very happy :D
Formulated with Glycolic Acid and 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, this serums is indeed a real glow booster and this is not just a marketing claim!

  • Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that can act as a water-binding agent and as an exfoliant. it can help shed dead skin to renew skin’s surface, visibly softening the signs of aging. Glycolic acid is one of the most effective and well-researched forms of AHA. Here I have no idea of the concentration but it's the 4th ingredient which makes me believe the concentration is enough to be effective to exfoliate the skin. Moreoever the pH is around 3 I would say, which is also low enough to be effective (more info about AHA and pH on Lab muffin).
  • 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable derivative of Vitamin C. Vitamin C is brightening, reduces skin pigmentation, increases collagen synthesis (wrinkle reduction), is a strong antioxidant and possesses anti-inflammatory properties. In short, a powerful ingredient! 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is less studied than vitamin C but it has the advantage to be much more stable than vitamin C. That said, human in vivo data shows it works against dark spots. 

In terms of texture it's a runny orange liquid that is immediately absorbed. It leaves the skin soft and  velvety. It has a fainty scent which is very pleasant.




SUMMARY - GLOW BOOSTER
Thanks to its brightening effect due to  both 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and glycolic acid (thanks to the exfoliation it provides) this serum will add a beautiful glow to the skin! I also like that the ingredient list is rather on the short side and that glycolid acid and the vitamin C derivative are pretty high in the list. The serum is also hydrating. Overall I find this serum very well formulated and worth every penny. That's defintely a serum I would recommend and it should work for basically everyone. I use it PM mixed with the Capture Youth cream and the Plump Filler. As it contains 2 active ingredients, start by using it 2 times a week or so and then you can use it more often (every 2 days or every day). And don't forget to use a sunscreen during the day as it contains glycolic acid!
  



This serum is formulated with water, glycerin and sodium hyaluronate as the main ingredients. Glycerin and sodium hyaluronate are powerful humectants, that will attract and retain water in your skin, they will bring hydration. Typically the more you hydrate your skin, the plumper it will look hence the name of this serum "Plump Filler".
Note that sodium hyaluronate comes right after phenoxyethanol which is present at a maximal concentration of 1%, this means sodium hyaluronate concentration is lower than 1%. I first thought this wasn't much but after researching a bit more, apparently sodium hyaluronate is usually formulated at concentration between 0.1-1% (6), max 2% (7). A manufacturer gives the recommended doses in the table below (from here) so this makes me think that the amount present in this serum is adequate and enough.
So I first thought this serum was a bit simple and overpriced but now that I searched a bit more and realized that it contains enough sodium hyaluronate, I think it's nicely formulated. The ingredient list is also on the short side and it's quite gentle.





In terms of formula, it's a mikly gelified serum that immediately feels hydrating when you apply it. It's quickly absorbed and is slightly sticky if you apply by itself (and especially if you apply it liberally as I do :D ). It's not if you mix it with your cream. It's fragranced but it stays subtle.

SUMMARY - PLUMP FILLER
Overall it has a gentle formula and contains some humectants that will indeed plump the skin (aka hydrate it). I personnally love hydrating products and that's why I enjoy using it. The texture and scent are also lovely and add to the pleasant experience. That's a serum I typically like using liberally because it feels so hydrating. I use it AM and PM (AM alone, PM mixed with the Glow Booster and the cream). It has such a nice feel on the skin and definitely brings a good amount of hydration that I adore using it, might even like it even more than the Glow Booster...(yes that means a lot coming from me...).




In summary, I'm pleasantly surprised by this new line by Dior. I LOVE LOVE LOVE the Glow Booster because it's everything I like in terms of ingredients and formula. It has a rather short ingredient list and really focuses on glycolic acid (exfoliation) and vitamin C (increases collagen synthesis, reduces the appearance of dark spots and fine lines and brightens the skin) to give a real glow to the skin!
To be completely honest, when looking at the ingredient list for the Plump Filler, I first thought it wasn't that special and was a bit overpriced. But after using it and realizing that it contains indeed an appropriate amount of sodium hyaluronate, I've kind of change my mind. It feels so nice on the skin and does provide a good amount of hydration so if you have the budget, I think it's worth it. You can probably find alternatives at a lower price in Korean or Japanese cosmetics (not sure in Western cosmetics though...I don't know other good hyaluronic acid serums, especially available in Switzerland...), but here the packaging is gorgeous, you have the delicate Dior scent, and the serum feels really nice on the skin so if you want to treat yourself, this is a nice serum to get :D




Purchase info
Dior products can be purchased from your regular Dior counter (e.g., SephoraSelfridgesNordstrom) or directly through dior.com. In Switzerland you can find them at ManorDouglasMarionnaud, and Jelmoli for example.
*Glow Booster purchased by me, others are PR Samples*

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4 comments

  1. Thanks for the helpful review! I want to try serum with vitamin C. Not the first time I read a good review about it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's definitely a good one I can highly recommend!

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  2. Coucou,
    Tu connais mon point de vue sur le plump, par contre le glow a l'air vraiment bien! Il faut que je m'y penche de plus près!
    Gros bisous,
    Lyna

    www.beautybylynmed.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oui ;) le glow est vraiment une jolie découverte!

      Delete

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